Back on land...for 24 hours

7-12 - Day 24 – Dutch Harbor, Unalaska Island, Alaska – mile 2846 - We have made it to land again! We topped out around 1000 miles away from any land over 24 days offshore. As we came through Unmak Pass last night we were welcomed by two pods of Orcas. Sailed through the night for our first taste of the Bering Sea. Came into the bay outside Dutch Harbor and immediately saw both sea otters and bald eagles. The town is pretty small, with a cute Russian Orthodox Church anchoring a small area of houses. Broader Dutch is a true company town, built completely around processing the significant amounts of fish and shipping it out to the world. This is the most productive fishery in the world and it shows.

We start by trying to find diesel – our top priority – and finally find the fuel dock – which is about 20’ high. We manage to dock with no help and without damaging the boat, and finally someone shows up to get us filled up. Interesting exercise with such a high pier. Meanwhile the wind comes up and threatens to pin the boat, but with some good driving by Kevin we are able to get off safely.

We get into the municipal dock and quickly meet two new boats – Pete and Ginger – who have been out for 4 years and are just coming back from being Covid stuck, and Trip, TK and Matt we have just landed from Hawaii after a long journey. It’s super cool to meet them and hear their stories.

We go to the nearest bar and have drinks and hamburgers, annoyed by the drone of the TV over the bar. Seems so discordant after weeks offshore. Afterwards we walk out to town – heading to “The Rat” – the main bar in town. Asking directions from one of the locals, she mentions that we should avoid walking along the cliff side of the road because angry nesting Eagles have attacked and hurt people. We kind of nod, figuring she’s embellishing.

Walking along the road, all of us except Brian heed the advice. Then we look up and see the very large, very intense eagle looking down at him. We try to convince Brian he’s up there, but Brian naturally thinks we are kidding. Fortunately, the eagle doesn’t attack, and Brian is quite surprised to see the eagle attack sign on the other end of the path. Then I show him the picture of the Eagle. He walked on the other side on the way back…

We hit “The Rat” for beers, and run into Trip, TK and Matt at the bar, along with a large collection of locals, fisherpeople and some…others. Josh heads outside and before we know it is throwing pallets on the fire and talking with Pete, and Aleut local. The night continues predictably, with all of us drinking a bit too much, hanging with the crowd, and avoiding getting on Angry Pete’s bad side (third Pete of the day).

The next morning we shake off the cobwebs, only to see Scott heading off to the airport. He’s been an amazing addition to the trip and we will miss him greatly. But Attu calls, and we reprovision with food and beverages, and pull the lines, heading off on the next 800 mile leg to our furthest west destination.

As we leave Dutch in the early evening and depart Unalaska, we are seen off by 25-30 whales. Amazing to see them breaching, feeding and casually lazing in the waters off Unalaska island. What a sight.