We started working our way north through the Deer Island Passage off the Alaskan Peninsula. The passage is amazing, weaving its way through amazing passes framed by a seemingly constant stream of snow-covered volcanos. Fishing boats were everywhere as the salmon are now in full swing. We don’t stop to fish, however, as the forecast ahead continues to worsen.
As gale force winds creep into the forecast, I decided to cut our path 70 miles and take a turn into King Cove harbor, nestled along the Alaskan Peninsula to wait out the storms. The weather service is talking a lot about the remnants of Typhoon Nida coming our way, with 20’+ swells for the entire Gulf of Alaska.
It’s blowing a solid 25 knots as we come into King Cove harbor. The only sailboat there, and one of the few that will stop there all year. Coming into dock we are greeted by Burt, who mistakes us for someone named Max, gives us a Red Salmon, cuts his finger on the beer can we give him, and tells a long story about why he is unfairly banned for life from one of the two bars in town.
Shortly after, we go to that bar (without Burt – who seemed ready to hug or punch us at any moment) and end up staying too long…we stumble back to the boat and wake up with wind and hangovers. Overnight we added lines to keep the boat safe and off the dock. Now boredom sets in. Josh climbs a ridge and faces down sideways rain in 40 knots of wind.
Kevin, Josh and I hike over to the point and check out a lake with tiny replica boats that apparently drag for fish in the lake. We pass the restaurant, which has no signage, without being aware it was even there. The town is a tough place, no trees to speak of, out in terrible elements, and heavily shrouded in fog and rain. Buildings are in tough shape, living in such an onslaught of nature. But the people are super friendly. Everyone waves. A friend, Tom, that we met playing pool invites us on a Caribou hunt. Everyone seems to be part of something just by having come to King Cove.
We try the restaurant. It’s Chinese but just called the restaurant because it’s the only game in town. The food is super good. The couple are a cute elderly Chinese couple who moved there a few years ago. We’re the only ones in the restaurant, which has just started serving inside a few days before.
By the third night in King Cove we are going stir crazy. Fortunately, the weather window is opening. Forecasts are getting increasingly less severe, carrying the jet stream more over Southeastern Alaska. Tomorrow morning we are going to try to make it all the way up to the Shumagin Islands and maybe even find surf! More to come…
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